Ithaki (or Ithaca) has been identified as the home of the mythological hero Odysseus of the Homeric epics (though some recent research indicates it could have been Levkas). With an area of 45 square miles and about 3,000 inhabitants, it lies off the northeast coast of Kephalonia. The capital, Vathy, has one of the world’s largest natural harbours. The community, declared listed in 1982, has maintained a distinctive Italianate architectural style. The natural harbour of Vathy encloses the islet of Lazzaretto. North of Vathy is the socalled Nymphs’ Cave, where Odysseus is said to have hidden on his return from the “island of the Phaiacians” (probably Corfu). The Cathedral has a wood-carved altar screen dated to 1793 and a bell tower built in 1820. The village of Levki with its stunning sunset views, and a little farther on, Aghios Ioannis with its immensely old olive tree 15 yards thick, dubbed Odysseus’ olive tree by the locals, are definitely must-visits. Frikes, built in the 16th century, has its well-kept windmills. Here you can board a boat to Kephalonia, Levkas and Kioni.
Hiking on Ithaki requires care, as the ubiquitous thorny bushes that are everywhere on the island, not to mention pointy stones, can wreak havoc on the unprotected legs and feet. Short-sleeved or sleeveless shirts are also risky, as the thorns can grow quite high and pierce unprotected flesh.
Anoghi-Menir: In Anoghi, the most ancient village in Ithaca,16km southwest of Vathy, there are the impressive, prehistoric megalithic monuments, known as “Menir”. The greatest and most particular of all is the rock of Araklis, of 8m height.
In Anoghi region, you will also see remains of the medieval era, you will admire the Venetian bell tower or you can taste local dishes and appetizers at the traditional coffeeshop. Here is the only heliport on the island.
Sightseeing
The dense vegetation, the deep blue clear Ionian waters, the traditional settlements and the archaeological sites make Ithaca a unique holiday destination.
Ithaca has been inhabited since the prehistoric times, like the other Ionian Islands. Evidence of an early life in ancient Ithaca is provided by the shards found at Pilikata village, with inscription in Linear A (“Grammiki A”), a type of writing dating back to prehistoric times. According to the myth, Ithaca owes its name to its first resident, Ithakos, the son of king Pterelaos.
The peak of Ithaca’s glory and power was around 1000 B.C. when Ithaca’s kingdom included all the Ionian Islands and part of the Akarnanian coast (Western Greece). The first ancient conquerors of Ionian Islands were the Mycenaean people, who had left their traces.
Ionian Islands (Eptanisa) have the same rich history, mostly due to their location on the trade and invasion routes to and from the Balkans, Italy and the Levant.
Archaeological Sights and Castles
Ancient Alalcomenae/Alkomenes: Ancient Alalcomenae, with ruins dated from the 8th century B.C., is situated near Vathy, the capital of the island. The archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann considered that here, at Aetos, the narrowest part of Ithaca, was located Odysseus town. Locals call the citadel (acropolis) at Aetos “Castle of Odysseus”. However, there are two scenarios about the town’s identity, as there are those consider that here is located the “Ithakision politia” (“city of the Ithacans”) that Aristotelis or have written. The ancient geographer Strabo refers to an Alalcomenae on the tiny island of Asteria, between Ithaca and Kefalonia (Homer calls the island Asteris).
Loizos cave: It is located at the bay of Stavros village. Here, the archaeologists have found within its corridors carved inscriptions testifying to the worship of Artemis, Hera and Athena dating back to the 9th century B.C., a rich collection of ceramics, dating from the Mycenaean to the Roman period and, recently, twelve tripods, similar to those Odysseus is supposed to have received from the Phaeacians. Also, an ancient city is considered to have been sunk here.
Pilikata: According to the Homeric description, Odysseus town is located near Stavros, at Pilikata; “it was at a place with view at three seas and surrounded by three mountains”. It is considered to have been established in the 3rd millennium B.C. and here, even early Helladic objects have been discovered. In this region, you will find the Archaeological museum of Stavros, where you will be able to see findings of the Mycenaean and Corinthian period.
Venetian castle: It is located on the top of the hill, above Vathy. It was built in 1807. the view from here is magnificent, as you will be able to sea even the island of Lefkada.
Cavern of Nymphs: The cavern of Nymphs is also known as “Marmarospilia”. It has two entrances and, according to the myth, is one for the Gods and one for the mortal people, as well as wonderful stalactites. Odysseus, also according to the myth, has hidden the gifts given to him by the King of Feakes, Alkinoos.
Evmeos/Eumaeus cave: The cave is located near Arethousa spring, at Marathias plateau. Here, according to the myth, Odysseus had been waiting for the goddess Athena. You will find it only if you know very well the region around.
Paleohora: From Perahori village, you will take a path leading to the ruined medieval Paleohora. Here you will find churches with great Byzantine frescoes. Paleohora, literally meaning “Old Village”, used to be the capital of the island during the Middle Ages and the beginning of the Venetian period.
Piso Aetos: It is the name of the wide region extended in the southwest of Aetos village (in Greek means “back Aetos”. Here, is the port of the island connecting with Kefalonia, Lefkada and Astakos (Etoloakarnania, Western Greece).
Beaches
There are 2 Blue Flag beaches in Ithaki: Dexia, Loutsa.
Aetos
In the middle of the island, deep in the bay with the same name, there is the preserved beach of Aetos, ideal for swimming.
St. John / Aspros Gialos
One of the best beaches with sand and rocks for plunging or underwater exploration, away from cars since you can get there only by walking via a small, stone trail. It is situated at the west side of the island, near St. John village. Nearby you will not find restaurants or canteens. However it has umbrellas.
From the nearby Lefki trails lead to several small sandy beaches, like Militera and Koutoupi.
Afales
A wonderful beach, ideal for enjoying the sunset while you swim. A fine dirt road beginning at Platrithia in north Ithaca may take you there through a dream location.
In Afales bay there are beaches where you can go only by boat. These beaches, with wonderful pebbles and sand, great blue water and high boulders providing natural shade in many spots are crowded during August.
Opposite Afales beach you will find the tiny, isolated beach Kathisma (access by boat from the Town, Frikes and Kioni).
At the west side of Afales bay, after the isolated beach Perivoli, you will find the small pebble beach Keramargio and the beautiful beach Kouloumi (access by boat from the Town, Frikes, Kioni).
Gidaki
Multicolour water and not very crowded (except when it fills with yachts and boats). There is a beach bar and it provides a lot of tents due to the lack of natural shade. Its water is crystal clear while from here you may admire the view towards Sterea Greece and some uninhabited small islands. The EU has awarded it with the title of one of the prettier beaches in Greece.
To come here you should follow a wonderful but treacherous trail (45’) through a forest with oaks, cypresses and pines from Schino. In the beginning you will walk on the coast, but almost always under shade. You will pass a hill, get through a dark and steep trail which looks like a tunnel and leads straight to the light reflected by the white pebbles. You may also get there by boat from Vathi port.
Dexia
A crowded although small beach with shallow water, ideal for families with children. It is organised and has a restaurant. It is situated 1.5 km north from Vathi, at the other side of the port, along the road to Aetos and northern Ithaca. The beach satisfies all 27 criteria set by the Greek Society for Protecting Nature. Here you may find sufficient hygiene facilities, a lifeguard, a canteen, care for people with special needs, etc.
Kaminia
It is situated at the northeast part of the island, north of Vathi, near Nisopoulo. A tarmac road leads up to a point and then an accessible downhill trail takes you to the pebble beach with its clear water.
Katsikouli
At about 100 m from Kioni, in east Ithaca, you must descend some steps to arrive at the beautiful bay.
Markena’s Valley
Ideal destination for couples in love at Frikes, in north Ithaca. It is a bay with pines and pebbles.
Limenia and Pera Limenia
Limenia beach, in frond of olive plantations providing natural shade for swimmers, is next to Frikes. After Limenia there is the small beach of Pera Limenia. You may get there by boat or through a trail beginning at Frikes.
Louizou
A beach with thin pebble. It is situated 1 km from Stavros village, at the northwest of the island.
Loutsa
In the entrance of Vathi port, at the left side, under the venetian canons you may find the beautiful Loutsa Beach. It has a canteen, umbrellas, deck chairs and an enchanting view to Vathi. It may have the most shallow water in the island. Its particularity is that one half of it has silt and the other half is covered by pebbles. The trail over it leads to the canons. In the summer it fills with people while the rest of the year it’s a destination for strolling or school excursions.
Marmakas/ Rompotis
From the top of Platrithia the serpentine dirt road to the huge beach is a challenge. From the rock, which is also a natural mooring, you may try plunging into the sea. Just pay attention not to get dizzy form the colour iridescences created by the water, the seaweed, the blue sky and the sunrays. When the water withdraws a stretch of sand separates the beach in two, creating at the one half a lagoon ideal for children.
Mavronas
A small dirt road from Rachi of Kionios, in east Ithaca, leads to the uninhabited St. Nicolas’ monastery at its natural port which has a small beach.
Minimata or Mnimata
In Skinos bay, in east Ithaca, near the Town, you will find Mnimata beach. A genuine Ithacan beach, clean with quiet and deep water.
Piso Aetos
Next to the port bearing the same name, in northwest Ithaca, with a spectacular view of Kefalonia and Antisamos. The coast is surrounded by barren conical mountains. On one of them it is said that rose Ulysee’s castle, that is the ancient Alalkomenes. Here is the small Piso Aetos port which services transport between Ithaca-Kefalonia-Patra and Ithaca-Kefalonia-Lefkas.
Platis Amos
A big and beautiful beach combining sand and wonderful pebbles as well as clear water in north Ithaca. It is considered one of the best beaches in Ithaca and Greece.
But you have to watch out for rock sliding. You may get there only by boat. During the summer, especially in August, the beach is filled by all types of boats arriving from Frikes, Kioni, Vathi, Fiskardo or elsewhere.
Polis
Below Stavros, in north Ithaca, there is a mooring for fishing boats at one side and a vast, crowded beach at the other side. A ruined church of the 18th century dedicated to St. Andrew completes the landscape. You may rent a boat here for other beaches.
In the seabed of Polis there are the ruins of the ancient town which sunk. At the north side of the port there is the Homeric cave of Louizos which was destroyed by earthquakes. Here you may enjoy the shade and freshness due to the tall poplars.
Next to Polis port there is the small Amoudi beach, where you may arrive from Polis by a boat within 10 minutes.
Kourvoulia
Along the coastal road from Frikes to Kioni, in north Ithaca, you will see adjoining, small, but crowded beaches, famous for their cool water.
First Kourvoulia is a peaceful beach, with unrivalled emerald water, accessed via steps through a vegetated hillside. Much the same is Second or Back Kourvoulia, but here there are steep cliffs.
Plakoutses is a steep, small beach in Kioni, in east Ithaca. A cement road descends from Rachi, passes through Plakoutses and continues to the adjoining Tsitsimida beach. Plakoutses is a camping site: tents are set on friezes parallel to the coast, in hollies, olive trees, stone pines and cypresses. Nearby there is fresh water, at St Nicolas.
In the small Tsitsimida beach, in Rachi of Kioni, you will find poplars, large rocks, fishing boats, yellow crops, cypresses and arbutuses, vineyards and some ancient olive trees right next to the wave with constitute a natural beauty canvas. This is where sage grows, a smoothing herb.
Sarakiniko
East of Vathi you may find Sarakiniko bay with the beach with the same name and its blue water. You may go by car to the first beach. To get to the second you will have to walk 200 m on rocks. However the second is better and less crowded.
Sarakinari
A small beach in Kiono, in east Ithaca, with pebbles and the picturesque Lodja village hanging above. Be advised that shadow comes here by noon.
Schinos/ Skinos
A narrow beach with sand and pebbles, filled with pine trees and thrift, deep in the bay with the same name, 3 km from Vathi. What sets it apart it from all the others in Ithaca is that it is a perfect hiding for those avoiding paparazzi. Due to the fact that it isn’t a private beach famous people like that they can swim among the crowd. So if you want to meet them come here.
Filiatro
At the north side of the island there is the pretty Filiatro beach, at the bay with the same name, which gathers local and foreign visitors. It is an organized beach with pebbles, a canteen, wooden deck chairs, tables and water sport facilities. Here you may find boats for renting.
Filiatro of Kioni
The pebbles of the nearby fields have an intoxicant smell mixed with the saltiness brought by the sea breeze. In this scenery there is also an old cemetery.
Frikes
A pebble beach in the village with the same name. It is situated 3 km from Stavros village, at the northeast of Ithaca. Near Frikes there is the small Vathi Amoudi beach, where you may go only by boat. From Frikes and Kioni, you may visit by boat three small, isolated, adjoining beaches with hard pebbles in a small bay near Frikes, Three Moudia beach.
Fokotripa
An isolated pebble beach where you may arrive only via a trail beginning at Milos, left of St. John in west Ithaca.
Useful info
Prefecture of Kefalinia – Ithaca Tel. 0030 26710 22120, 29130
Archaeological Museum of Vathy Tel. 0030 26740 32200
Archaeological Collection of Stavros Ithaki Tel. 0030 2674031305
Naval – Folkloric Museum Tel. 0030 26740 33398
Ithaca’s Rooms & Apartments Association Tel. 0030 26740 31079
Kefalonia-Ithaca Hotels Association Tel. 0030 26710 23415
Association of Tourist Accommodation Kefalonia-Ithaca Tel. 0030 26710 22593
Ithaca(Vathi)Police Department Tel. 0030 26740 32205
Health Center of Ithaca Tel. 0030 26740 32222
Helth center of Stavros Tel. 0030 26740 31207
Municipality of Ithaca(Vathi) Tel. 0030 26740 32795, 23911
Municipality of Perachori Tel. 0030 26740 32585
Municipality of Stavros Tel. 0030 26740 31309
Municipality of Kioni Tel. 0030 26740 31766
Municipality of Exogi Tel. 0030 26740 51100
Municipality of Anogi Tel. 0030 26740 33509
Municipality of Lefki Tel. 0030 26740-31695
Greek highlights 